A Russian Abroad: Parma

Back in Europe now for a little while and, after having truly discovered and awakened my Russian side that had stayed dormant for so long, I was fascinated to see how I would adjust back to life in Europe, in Italy.

Moving to any new place for an extended period of time always involves a few boring, often unnecessarily-complicated errands that take up the first week or so of your time. Now was no different. Coming from a city where everything is open late into the evening, if not 24/7, and lunch break is something to be taken when one has a minute to spare, adjusting to the sacred 90-minute Italian lunch break and generally limited opening hours meant morning rushes to get to places before they closed for lunch as well as factoring in the much more relaxed pace Italians have when it comes to getting things done. I kept missing the guy helping me with my bank account - as it turns out being in “in the afternoons” means arriving at 14:30 and leaving by 16:00. [A guy at the hospital the other day even made a joke to to his colleague who was leaving early; “do you work in a bank now?” - a common theme?] At least everyone is unbelievably friendly so it always feels like you’re talking to an old friend doing whatever they can to help with a big, cheeky grin.

A month in a city I know and love deeply, before going to Parma to study at the conservatory until June, Rome allowed me to gently settle back into Italian life before the late end-of-February start of term. Within a couple of days I found my go-to coffee and croissant place and it took a mere few days before I was greeted with a morning “Ciao bella, come stai? Cappuccino, vero? e un cornetto, si?”*
[see 'Feeling Raf and Ready' http://arussianabroad.blogspot.com/2018/10/].
In any new place I live in, I tend to get my bearings and orientate myself through food. I like to try as many potential cafe’s, coffee places, restaurants and on-the-go spots as possible (money permitting of course). This not only gives me a perfect opportunity to explore the city, including smaller roads, shortcuts and less touristy areas, but it allows me acquaint myself as quickly as possible with the area as well as giving me some kind of “local” knowledge - a crucial factor in feeling like you have a life there. I found the best ice-cream spot in Rome this way, and of all the people (including a couple complainers about the 15-min walk from the metro to get there) I have subsequently brought there, no one has yet to disagree. Relaxing my diet rules slightly, after some encouragement, I allowed myself to try bucatini all’amatriciana and the best spaghetti alla carbonara Rome has to offer, while also indulging in the normality of having slightly under-sized donuts for breakfast. (They count as a “pastry” here, and who am I to tell them otherwise?)

I quickly adjusted to hectic drivers, buses that run on their own, as of yet, undisclosed schedules and the late dinner time (around 9/9:30pm), and after a few weeks I felt ready to tackle real life in Parma. Having never been there, but knowing the city was located not far from Bologna and with a reputation of a good university and a very good conservatory, I expected the city to be a smaller version of Bologna. Oh, how mistaken I was. I was greeted with this hybrid german-dutch-italian city and I was caught off guard. Parma is clean and orderly. People are on time and follow the rules of the road - including slowing down for pedestrians at a crossing. It feels like there are more bikes than cars - especially in the centre - and the number 5 “bus” is some kind of strange hybrid between bus and electric tram. Think electric tram on wheels. The buses are regular and reliable and people seem to be trustworthy. I have seen bikes left on streets secured by a lock between the back wheel and the frame but standing otherwise freely on the pavement. Things and people here are organised, straightforward and calm - a surprisingly welcome change and breathe of fresh air.

A city known for its Parma Ham and Parmesan, I wasn’t surprised to see Parmesan being sold in outdoor vending machines to ensure 24-hour access in case of emergency and I’ve vowed to find the best Parmesan in town before my time is up. The coloured houses and clean architecture weirdly remind me of Dusseldorf, while the overwhelming number of bikes, of Amsterdam - this impression not at all hindered by the legalisation of CBD marijuana in Italy and the shops that have been popping up since. However, go into the historical centre and the “italianness” is unmistakeable. The beautiful duomo completed 900 years ago is as stunning as ever and radiates with rich Italian history and art. And there is the ever present slightly hexagonal-circular shape of the old city walls, which are clearly visible on any map and typical to these cities. A day spent in the nearby city of Reggio Emilia (on the same line between Bologna and Piacenza) and the feeling was the same and very comforting. An architecture and a history giving these emiliane cities a character that is beautiful and completely and truly Italian. And, of course, no other country will make ice-cream like they do here. Thankfully I’ve already found my Parma gelato place and it is conveniently right around the corner from my house.

Visitors are more than welcome.

Un bacio,

A xxx

*the name for a croissant tends to vary region to region but cornetto/brioche/pasto are all acceptable options.