Wednesday 20 November 2013

The Chocolate Festival comes to Bologna.

Last week the inhabitants of Bologna were treated to five days of a chocolate festival which took over the three main piazze in the centre of the city. I had the best white hot chocolate I have ever tasted and indulged in crystalised fruit covered in chocolate, chocolate coccoretti (which I had never had before but were absolutely DELICIOUS - and on which the sign said 'eat 2 and lose a pound' - I highly doubt it!) and many, many free samples of the different types of chocolate on offer. Chocolate in the shape of tools was a big theme - slightly random I thought - along with shoes and musical instruments.

Two friends who are working in Florence for their Erasmus came to visit for the weekend for the chocolate festival and with one I took a trip outside of the city to Cesena as some of her family live out there in the country. It was a wonderful opportunity to explore a part of a Italy that is just as beautiful but isn't a major tourist attraction. We were treated to a lovely typical italian lunch (at her relative's) with pasta as the first course and meat and salad as the second followed by coffee. Then, we went to explore Cesena and had a walk around the Piazza del Popolo, past the Biblioteca Malatestiana (the first public library in Europe) and the Malatestian Fortress. Having done that we decided to go to Forli - Cesena isn't the most happening place - and I was interested to see what all the fuss was about when people complained about being placed in Forli (for Erasmus) instead of Bologna! The first thing that struck me walking into the centre was that I felt like I was on a film set. I later found out Mussolini was born in the province of Forli and, during his rise to power, fascists went to the province and gathered there and certain architecture was rebuilt to reflect the new regime. The town feels very modern, orderly, square and slightly cold - and honestly like it had just been built for a new film in a big warehouse. Very strange but also fascinating to look around a city which is so close to Bologna yet feels worlds apart.

Another small, slightly disheartening observation is that though my language is definitely improving - it seems that the Italian language is just a very difficult language to learn with many small, fiddly grammar rules in addition to the range of dialects, all of which seem to seep into 'standard Italian.' During lunch in Cesena, I witnessed one of the family correct his younger sister saying 'nella spiaggia' (on the beach) instead of 'in spiaggia.' I felt better to see that even a native makes such grammar mistakes!

I went to see another film this week; another french one, however, this time dubbed in italian called Giovane e Bella (Jeune et Jolie). I loved it and it was another one which had been shown at Cannes this year. I'm also lucky in that there is a cinema twenty seconds away from my flat so I braved the rain (for which the majority of italians normally will cancel their plans) and enjoyed another wonderful french film.

It has been quite a food orientated couple of weeks. Ivana (one of the friends who came from Florence) and I went to a little 'pop-up' type specialist tortellini place - tortellini is a specialist food from Bologna - and we had the tortellini in brodo which was absolutely delicious and so so simple to make I will definitely be copying it at home. It was chilly and rainy and we were sat in Piazza Maggiore with warm pots of the tortellini looking onto the tents of the chocolate festival which would supply us with desert! Last week I also went to the Osteria dell'Orsa which is one of the most well-know typically bolognese osteria's in the city. Bologna has osteria's and trattoria's and traditionally you could only buy drinks in an osteria and you would bring your own food, and the trattoria would sell food and drink. Nowadays, however, there is only one 'original' osteria left where this tradition still stands. The Osteria dell'Orsa is less expensive and so very popular with students. I trusted the six italians I was with to choose my meal for me as I didn't recognise a few of the dishes and they did well as the food was delicious. We had crostini  and beef straccetti which was yummy but very filling - and I had also eaten a big margherita for lunch so I was completely full. When in Italy though....might as well eat like an italian. (Bologna also offers a good range of all-you-can-eat sushi restaurants and I could honestly live on sushi so I may have been twice in the last couple weeks... )

Other than that...the days are getting colder, the christmas market on strada maggiore is now open and people are starting to study for the odd exam in december. I start my 12 hours a week (in two 6 hour sessions) of conservatory classes on friday, I had a concert last week and have spent today learning a very difficult part for a concert next tuesday! Busy as always!

Un grande bacio xxxx


chocolate objects - cool but not practical

Italian countryside just outside Cesena

Piazza del Popolo

Piazza Aurelio Saffi - Forli

Piazza from a different angle

la Basilica di San Mercuriale




Monday 4 November 2013

Aung San Suu Kyi

Time is going by quicker and quicker. I can't believe it's November already and I've been here for nearly two months! I have set myself a target that from the 1st of December I will speak only italian until I go home for christmas (including text messages) so I have one month to study as hard as I can! Then I will have January to cement my italian before I go off to France (as I'm so worried about losing my italian while I'm there...).

Last Wednesday (30th October) I played in a university ceremony accompanying a horn, clarinetist and a small choir. What I didn't realise when agreeing to play was the importance and scale of the ceremony. Security was tight - including sniffer dogs - and the press was plentiful. I discovered two days before that it was going to be broadcast live and my face would be projected onto a large screen making it about ten times the size. Even more important was the guest, of whom the ceremony was in honour. Aung San Suu Kyi is a Burmese politician who was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1991. She was detained under house arrest for 15 years and was only recently released in 2010. I found her speech very moving and among other things she mentioned how although her father was assassinated by his rival politicians when she was just two years old, she doesn't hold a grudge and understands that they too wanted independence for her country but were just going about it in the wrong way. In Burma, she explained, there is a focus on finding culprits and on condmanation. They seem to think that condamnation is essential for the solution of problems. Aung San Suu Kyi described how it actually just fuels fires of fear which then develop into hatred. What people really need is understanding and compassion. She is an incredible women and actually studied PPE at Oxford, married an englishman and had two kids before going back to Burma.

To see her speech, have a look at this link (google translate if you want to read more info there as well):

http://www.magazine.unibo.it/Magazine/Attualita/2013/10/16/Laurea_d_Aung_San_Suu_Kyi.htm

One point of the ceremony which I found a bit ridiculous was a young burmese pianist who played after the speech as a tribute to Aung San Suu Kyi. She played an awful arrangement of Pachebel's canon...I don't need to say anymore.

On Friday 25th October, I went to milan for a quick trip with ESN (erasmus student network). My first visit back to the city where I was born! It was hideously embarrassing going around with ESN leaders who are so keen to have big group photos and carry massive flags around everywhere we go but I loved the city. It doesn't feel like a typical italian city as it feels much more metropolitan but it still carries an essence of italian culture. I have felt that other italian cities I have visited have are beautiful and full of culture and history, however, they feel like they are stuck in the past whereas as Milan was very much in the present. We went for aperitivo and then went to a club called Alcatraz - which apparently is very famous - and was absolutely huge and exactly what I expected from a big european club which cheesy music but it was great.

I wanted to comment on how often I hear english words with an italian accent used as part of the italian language as a translation simply doesn't exist. 'Flash back/forward,' 'in versione low cost,' 'babysitter,' 'sexy,' 'slot machine,' all are common examples and I find more and more all the time!

I went to giardini margherita which is a lovely park quite close to my house and I love it. It's not absolutely massive but has a really nice feel and a couple friends brought their guitars so we had a nice play and sing-along. I then made them sunday roast. They had never had it before but they absolutely LOVED it - even the vegetarian who couldn't get over how good gravy is!

On the weekend I went to watch La vita di Adele (La vie d'Adele) which won the Palme d'Or at Cannes this year and it's a long film but absolutely amazing. I don't want to give anything away however the main actress is younger than me (which is a bit depressing) and she is incredible and unbelievably convincing. I highly recommend watching it - though a couple scenes may feel a bit uncomfortable...

In other news, I am now officially a student at the Conservatory of Bologna and my course starts this week. My piano was tuned (finally!) and I started my italian language course so I have lots to do...


Duomo in Milan


Sunday Roast with Italians...

Empty ceremony hall - sound check


Full ceremony hall...

Bombocrepe - YUMMY.

Giardini Margherita

Giardini Margherita at night..


Ci sentiamo dopo,

xxx